The textiles of
demonstrate skilful weaving techniques, inimitable colour combinations and
fascination designs that make them a class apart in domestic & overseas
, an important silk weaving center is famous not only for its brocade or
kinkab ((superb weaving in gold and silver), but also for the wide variety
of techniques and styles. The brocades are distinguished by apt poetic names
(moon and stars) dhupchhaon (sunshine and shade), mazchar(ripples of
silver), morgala (peacock’s neck), bulbul chasm (nightingale’s eyes).
is also famous for the tanchoi
saree which resembles a fine miniature.
Its origin can be traced to three
Indian Parsi brothers by the name of Choi. In tanchoi sarees the designs are
always floral with interspersing of birds.
Mubarakpur, is one of the
important silk weaving centers in the area. Jamdani of ‘figured muslin’
traditionally woven in
is now the speciality of Tanda in Faizabad. The cotton fabric is brocaded
with cotton and sometimes with zari threads.
Each region has its typical
technical skills and variations and the silk of
, Kanchpuram, Murshidabad and Kashmir are as well known as the cotton sarees
or the cotton and silk maheshwaris of Madhya Pradesh. The famous ikat
technique is used in the Patolas of Gujarat and Orissa.
Extreme softness, vivid
colours and translucent texture characterizes the silk weaving of
In the field of
ornamentation, embroidery alone can match jewellery in splendour. It is
expression of emotions, rendered with patient labour which induces grace and
elegance into articles of everyday use.
Noor Jehan, the wife of the
Mughal Emperor Jahangir is said to have introduced the art of chikan
embroidery to Uttar Pradesh The chikan work of Lucknow, patterned on lace is
delicate and subtle. The stitch by its sheer excellence provides
ornamentation to the material. The charm lies in the minuteness of the
floral motifs. Stitches used are satin stitch, button-hole stitch, dar
stitch, knot stitch, netting and appliqué work which brings a charming
shadowy effect on lace.
Embroidery done in metal
wires by kalabattu or zari as it is popularly called, is in a class by
itself. The heavier and more elaborate work is called zardozi. The ground
material used is heavy silk, velvet or satin. Salma sitara, gijai, badla,
katori, seed pearls are used for decoration. Kamdani, a lighter needle work
done on lighter material, produces a lovely glittering effect, especially in
designs known as hazara booti, thousans dots, done with zari thread. Kamdani
is used for weaving apparel such as scarves, veils, caps etc.
HAND BLOCK PRINTING
The fabric is further
decorated by printing designs on it. Hand block printing in
was the chief occupation of the chhipas – a community of printers. They
used metal or wooden blocks to print designs on the fabrics by hand. This
technique is in vogue even today.Besides Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh is also a
veritable treasure-house of traditional designs which range from the
classical booties, known as dots of Kanauj, to the universal Mango, to the
famous Tree of Life. The great colour belt in
extends from the interior of Sind through the deserts of
. Rajasthan and
are particularly noted for its bandhini design.
Smile, but do not laugh of
you see a young Drench woman wearing a Kashmiri Shikara dress Rajasthani
ghagra and choli.
being a land of various communities, you can be sure of falling to
temptation of buying atleast half a dozen ethic dresses from various parts
of the country. These are freely available in respective local markets.
IDEAL PLACES TO SHOP
, Bihar, Rajasthan,
Gujarat, Chennai, Kerala.
So go ahead, shop to your
heart’s delight and take home an exquisite, piece made in
India , just for you.